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In this blog post by Kristian Bertel, we are learning about South Mumbai in Maharashtra.
Read the background story of these blog photos by the photographer.
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This young woman was portrayed a late afternoon on the street of Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg in Mumbai, India. The street is located in the Colaba area of Mumbai, where you will find many street vendors. Mumbai is the city which encapsulates the dynamics and chaos of modern India better than any other city.
South Mumbai
As Mumbai's tourist scene, Colaba and the street of Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg sprawls down the city's southernmost peninsula, Kristian Bertel takes you to this bustling district packed with street stalls and begging women and children in the streets.
Situated in the Colaba area of Mumbai, India
Mumbai is a city of extremes, where slum housing residents only serve some small pennies a day while Bollywood stars and industrial billionaires making huge sums of summer. It is a city that never sleeps and which is filled with some of the best street food in the world, as well as fine restaurants by famous chefs. It is a cosmopolitan city of people from all over India, but unfortunately it is also the city which is home to have a great sightedness. It is a city of dreams for millions of Indians, but at the same time, gives so few of them the comfort that they have dreamed of. The picture that you can see above in this blog post is taken in he Colaba area of Mumbai, India. The name 'Colaba', comes from Kolabhat, a word in the language of Kolis, the indigenous inhabitants of the islands, before the arrival of Portuguese. The area that is now Colaba was originally a region consisting of two islands: Colaba and Little Colaba.
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The many traffic jams are also a memorable experience, where you can often stopping in the middle of a symphony of honking vehicles where barefoot children who often hold infants in their embrace and tragically disfigured men and women begging for change while knocking on the window. This is a photo of the Colaba area in Mumbai, India.
Roadside shopping in Mumbai's Colaba district
Colaba is quite close to the happening places in Mumbai, walking distance from the Gateway of India. A market for the daily needs or the elite articles. Full of lovely restaurants and shops. A must for all visitors also as a photographer. Colaba is a pretty bustling place, as is Mumbai in general and so there are flocks of market stalls, vendors and generally annoying people, trying to sell your water, food, their mother-in-law and anything else they have to hand. A must visit area for people visiting Mumbai, as well as an area that Mumbaikars have fond memories of and keep coming back to. You want theatres, restaurants, bars, cafes, delis, late night eateries and roadside shopping.
Colaba, a vibrant neighborhood at the southern tip of Mumbai, is renowned for its rich history, cultural diversity, and bustling markets. This area, originally a cluster of fishing villages, has transformed into one of Mumbai’s most popular destinations for both locals and tourists. A key highlight of Colaba is the Gateway of India, a monumental arch overlooking the Arabian Sea, built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. This iconic landmark serves as a symbol of Mumbai's colonial past and its emergence as a bustling metropolis.
"Colaba Causeway, the main street, is a shopper's paradise, lined with a plethora of shops selling everything from trendy fashion and jewelry to antiques and souvenirs. The vibrant street market offers a unique blend of traditional and contemporary items, reflecting the eclectic spirit of Mumbai"
The area is also a culinary hotspot, boasting a variety of restaurants, cafes and street food stalls. From the historic Leopold Café, a favourite among both locals and expatriates, to fine dining establishments, Colaba's food scene caters to diverse tastes. Culturally, Colaba is home to several important institutions, including the National Gallery of Modern Art and the Prince of Wales Museum, which offer insights into India's rich artistic and historical heritage. With its blend of historical landmarks, shopping, dining and cultural venues, Colaba captures the essence of Mumbai's cosmopolitan and dynamic character, making it a must-visit area in the city.
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The image of the begging man in India, as you can see in the picture above, taken in the fashionable Colaba district where beggars and women with children under the arm begging for rupees to milk powder along branded shops and souvenir stalls. This is one of the photographer's many portraits of life from India.
A compelling rendering of the human condition in India
Kristian Bertel is a photographer dedicated to documenting the social and environmental issues that define our times. He specializes in telling the life stories of people, living in close contact with cities and he has chosen to take life portraits for long periods. He also has a strong commitment to street children and environmental issues, with a particular interest in the interactions between people and city life. While Mumbai as a city can be chaotic and hectic, it need not be overwhelming. It has just its own rhythm, as it just takes some time to get use to. And if one takes the time to explore this contrasting city and its many neighborhoods, you will get some memorable experiences that you will never forget.
The human condition in India is a tapestry of contrasts, reflecting the country's immense diversity and rapid socio-economic changes. Home to over 1.4 billion people, India presents a complex picture of progress and persistent challenges. On one hand, India has made significant strides in various sectors. Economic growth has lifted millions out of poverty and advancements in technology, education and healthcare have improved quality of life for many. Cities like Mumbai, Bangalore and Delhi are bustling with innovation and opportunity, symbolizing the nation's dynamic spirit.
However, the country also grapples with deep-rooted issues. Poverty remains a significant challenge, with a substantial portion of the population living below the poverty line. Access to quality healthcare and education is uneven, often divided along urban-rural lines. Social inequalities, including caste and gender discrimination, continue to impact many lives, despite legal protections and affirmative actions. The rural-urban divide is another critical aspect of the human condition in India. While urban centers thrive, rural areas often lack basic infrastructure and services. Efforts to bridge this gap are ongoing but require sustained attention and resources.
Moreover, environmental concerns such as pollution, deforestatio and climate change pose serious threats to livelihoods and health, particularly among the vulnerable sections of society. So the human condition in India is marked by resilience and aspiration amidst challenges. The nation's journey towards a more equitable and prosperous future hinges on addressing these multifaceted issues with comprehensive and inclusive approaches.
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Mumbai is the city which encapsulates the dynamics and chaos of modern India better than any other city. In this sprawling city by the sea, will both find everything from succulent street food to haute cuisine and colorful bazaars to haute couture, humiliating poverty of staggering wealth. Along the road of Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg you can find street food stalls like this one.
Street food at the Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg
When walking in this area you can find the many street food stalls which are vending meals and fruits. Street food is like here in India found around the world, but has variations within both regions and cultures. Street food is ready-to-eat food or drink sold in a street or other public place, such as a market or fair by a vendor, often from a portable food booth, food cart or food truck. While some street foods are regional, many are not, having spread beyond their region of origin. Most street foods are also classed as both finger food and fast food and are cheaper on average than restaurant meals. Today in India, people may purchase street food for a number of reasons, such as to obtain reasonably priced and flavourful food in a sociable setting, to experience ethnic cuisines and also for nostalgia.
Street food in South Mumbai is a culinary adventure that reflects the diverse and vibrant culture of the city. This bustling area, known for its historical landmarks and seaside charm, offers an array of delicious and affordable street food options that attract both locals and tourists. One of the most iconic street foods is the 'Vada pav', often referred to as Mumbai's version of a burger. It consists of a spicy potato fritter sandwiched between a soft bun, typically served with chutneys and fried green chili. Another favourite is 'Pav bhaji', a flavourful mix of mashed vegetables cooked in spices and served with buttered bread rolls.
South Mumbai's street food scene is also famous for its 'Chaats', such as 'Bhel puri' and 'Sev puri', which are tangy, spicy and crunchy snacks made with puffed rice, potatoes, onions and a blend of chutneys. For those with a sweet tooth, the freshly made 'Jalebis', Faloodas' and 'Kulfis' are a must-try. The bustling streets of areas like Colaba Causeway, Crawford Market and Marine Drive come alive with vendors dishing out these culinary delights. Eating street food in South Mumbai is more than just a meal – it is an immersive experience that showcases the city's rich flavours and convivial spirit.
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One can easily become emotionally overwhelmed to visit Mumbai, formerly known as 'Bombay'. The first thing you see when you arrive at the airport is the characteristic spicy scent, which is often not entirely pleasant to smell. Next, try to stay calm when it comes to the crazed taxi-ride through the seemingly lawless streets, where drivers running a red light or just as likely driving on the wrong side of the road. An old woman is looking into the photographer's lens in Mumbai, India.
"South Mumbai, often referred to as 'SoBo', is not just a geographical location, it is the vibrant heart of India's financial, cultural and historical legacy. This bustling area encapsulates the essence of Mumbai's evolution from a colonial trading post to the financial powerhouse of the nation"
Historical significance
South Mumbai's history is deeply intertwined with the colonial era. The iconic Gateway of India, built in 1924, stands as a monumental reminder of the British Raj. This area was the center of British administration and trade, with its grandiose architecture reflecting Victorian, Gothic and Art Deco styles. Structures like the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, formerly Victoria Terminus and the Bombay High Court are prime examples of this architectural grandeur, drawing history enthusiasts and tourists alike.
The heartbeat of India's financial capital
South Mumbai is a cultural melting pot, home to diverse communities including Parsis, Gujaratis, Marathis and more. This diversity is reflected in the area's rich culinary landscape. From the Parsi cafes like Britannia & Co., serving delectable berry pulao, to the bustling Mohammed Ali Road during Ramadan, the flavours of South Mumbai are as varied as its people. The region is also a cultural hub, boasting institutions like the National Centre for the Performing Arts and the Jehangir Art Gallery. These venues host an array of events, from classical music concerts to contemporary art exhibitions, ensuring that the cultural heartbeat of the city never skips a beat.
Financial powerhouse
Known as the financial district of India, South Mumbai houses the Bombay Stock Exchange and the Reserve Bank of India. Nariman Point and the Bandra-Kurla Complex are bustling with corporate offices, making it the go-to place for business tycoons and budding entrepreneurs alike. This concentration of financial institutions underscores South Mumbai's role in shaping India's economic landscape. Nariman Point, located at the southern tip of Mumbai, is one of the city's most iconic and prestigious business districts. Named after Khursheed Framji Nariman, a visionary municipal corporator, this area has evolved from reclaimed land into a bustling hub of commercial activity. Renowned for its impressive skyline, Nariman Point is home to numerous multinational corporations, financial institutions and luxury hotels, making it a key player in Mumbai's economic landscape. The district's strategic location along Marine Drive offers stunning views of the Arabian Sea, adding to its allure and status.
Furthermore, the area's proximity to other significant landmarks, such as the Gateway of India and Colaba Causeway, makes it a popular destination for both locals and tourists. With its blend of business acumen and cultural richness, Nariman Point epitomizes the dynamic spirit of Mumbai, serving as a testament to the city's growth and cosmopolitan character.
Education and innovation
South Mumbai is also a hub for education and innovation. Prestigious institutions like St. Xavier's College and the University of Mumbai are located here, nurturing the minds that drive the city's future. Additionally, the presence of research institutions and startup incubators highlights South Mumbai's role in fostering innovation and new business ventures. Mumbai University, one of India's premier educational institutions, plays a crucial role in shaping the educational landscape for the Mumbaikars. Established in 1857, it has grown to encompass over 700 affiliated colleges, providing a wide range of undergraduate, postgraduate and doctoral programs. The university's commitment to academic excellence and research innovation has made it a beacon of higher education in Mumbai.
For Mumbaikars, Mumbai University represents more than just an institution – it is a gateway to numerous opportunities. The university's diverse curriculum and vibrant campus life foster critical thinking, creativity and leadership among students. Its strategic location in one of India's most dynamic cities provides students with access to internships, industry collaborations and cultural experiences that enrich their educational journey.
Moreover, Mumbai University's emphasis on inclusive education ensures that students from varied socio-economic backgrounds have the chance to pursue their academic goals. This inclusivity is vital for the holistic development of the city, as it helps bridge educational disparities and contributes to the creation of an informed and skilled workforce.
"Mumbai University is not just an academic institution but a cornerstone of progress and empowerment for the Mumbaikars, driving both personal growth and the socio-economic development of the city"
Architectural marvels
Walking through South Mumbai is akin to walking through an open-air museum. The heritage buildings, many of which are well-preserved, offer a glimpse into the city's colonial past. Marine Drive, often referred to as the 'Queen's Necklace' due to its dazzling, crescent-shaped nighttime illumination with its shimmering lights at night, is one of Mumbai's most iconic and picturesque locales. Stretching along the Arabian Sea from Nariman Point to Girgaum Chowpatty, this 3.6-kilometer boulevard is a favoured spot for both locals and tourists. During the day, Marine Drive is a bustling promenade where people jog, walk and enjoy the sea breeze. The promenade's wide sidewalks are lined with palm trees, offering a scenic and refreshing escape from the city's hustle and bustle. As the Sun sets, the area transforms into a glittering arc of lights, providing a breathtaking view of the city's skyline against the backdrop of the sea.
"Marine Drive is also a cultural hotspot, hosting various events, from street performances to large-scale public celebrations. Nearby, Girgaum Chowpatty beach offers a taste of Mumbai's famous street food, with vendors serving up local favorites like 'Bhel puri' and 'Pav bhaji'"
For Mumbaikars, Marine Drive is more than just a scenic route; it is a symbol of the city's enduring spirit and vibrant lifestyle. It captures the essence of Mumbai’s blend of natural beauty and urban energy, making it a cherished landmark for relaxation, recreation and social gatherings and provides a scenic promenade for residents and tourists.
Challenges and resilience in South Mumbai
Despite its many charms, South Mumbai faces challenges such as overcrowding, aging infrastructure and environmental concerns. The local government and various NGOs are actively working to address these issues through sustainable urban planning and conservation efforts. One of the most notable demonstrations of South Mumbai's resilience was during the 2008 terrorist attacks. The community's response showcased the indomitable spirit of its residents, uniting to support one another and rebuild stronger than before.
"South Mumbai is more than just a region – it is the soul of Mumbai, encapsulating the city's spirit of resilience, diversity and progress. Whether you are drawn to its historical landmarks, cultural venues or financial institutions, South Mumbai offers a dynamic blend of the past, present and future. It stands as a testament to Mumbai's enduring allure and its pivotal role in India's story"
A sensitive eye with his portraits
A sensitive eye and an intimate relationship to his subjects are signatures of his work. Kristian's images have been published on the Internet worldwide and his editorial assignments and personal projects have generated 15 slideshows, which all can be seen on the photographs wesbite. He has also been immersed in photography from another perspective, where he served as Your Shot photographer on National Geographic. Travels across five different states in India exposed him to an extraordinary diversity of cultures, from the Ganges River in Varanasi to the street life in Mumbai to the city of Aarhus in Denmark, the area Kristian calls home. He works as a photographer and available for editorial assisgnments in Asia, Africa and the Middle East. For further information please:
Contact the photographer
More photographs from India
If you are interested to see more of the photographer's pictures from India, you can see one of his slideshows which also appears on the photographer's website.
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